Spoon Rest

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Spoon Rest

Postby rawkstar320 » Fri May 17, 2013 12:22 pm

I finally got around to starting a project that requires 2 sided 3D machining: A simple spoon rest (Those "spoons" that you rest a cooking utensil on when using the stove). My wife has been bugging me about making one for a while, so I whipped a quick model up in SolidWorks using the Surface and warp tools and starting cutting!

I will post more pictures when it is done, but for the prototype you can see that I am using MDF. The final version will be made using a bamboo cutting board.

I used 1/2" MDF for a waste board, by milling holes for 6mm hex nuts I was able to create a new set of tie downs to hold the part in place. Before cutting, I milled (2) 1/4" dowel holes in the bed, and in the raw material - that way it was securely located when I did side A. The theory being that my 2 clamps were barely holding onto the material, So i wanted to insure that the part did NOT move.

CAM00411[2].jpg


CAM00412[1].jpg


I used a 1/8" endmill for the waterline roughing pass

CAM00414[1].jpg


1/8" ballmill for the 2 finishing passes
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Interested in making your own machinable wax? Check out: http://www.instructables.com/id/Machinable-Wax/
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Re: Spoon Rest

Postby Hawk » Sat May 18, 2013 11:02 am

Great project......

I have tried doing some full 3d milling, but have not had a lot of success with it yet.
So will be looking to see how yours turns out.....

Ken
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Re: Spoon Rest

Postby rawkstar320 » Sat May 18, 2013 9:15 pm

So far so good! I will post some more pictures tomorrow, I think I will need a few more finishing passes - which take a while...
Check out my Etsy store: http://www.etsy.com/shop/WondrousWidgets

Interested in making your own machinable wax? Check out: http://www.instructables.com/id/Machinable-Wax/
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Re: Spoon Rest

Postby rawkstar320 » Tue May 21, 2013 11:58 am

Well, the project turned out great! Ive attached a few more pictures of the process, but I highly recomend trying some 3D machining. It really is not that hard. When I do the next one, I may even write a quick tutorial on how to do it.

If you would like the STL, shoot me a PM and I will send it over to you. I don't think the forum will let me upload it.

CAM00424[2].jpg


CAM00425[1].jpg


Capture.PNG
Check out my Etsy store: http://www.etsy.com/shop/WondrousWidgets

Interested in making your own machinable wax? Check out: http://www.instructables.com/id/Machinable-Wax/
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Re: Spoon Rest

Postby johntech » Wed May 22, 2013 6:35 am

I think if you put this inthe General Code Database section of the forum you should be able to upload everything
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Re: Spoon Rest

Postby Hawk » Wed May 22, 2013 7:51 am

Rawkstar,

Looks great. I have a question though.
When I am doing my carvings, I just do a single finish pass, with 1/8" Ball, set at about .0625 depth, and only a .0075 - 6% stepover.
This works well 75% of the time, depending on the wood.
So when your saying your doing multiple finish passes, what settings are you using for the different passes...?

The 25% rejects, are usually in new pine. I end up with a lot of tool tracks and fuzzing. Older, dryer wood, even old pine seems to carve a lot better.
So I am wondering if the multiple passes would work better in the new pine..?

Ken
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Re: Spoon Rest

Postby rawkstar320 » Wed May 22, 2013 12:45 pm

well, my waterline rouging pass (via CamBam) goes down to 0.010 rouging clearance (40% stepover). but the steps are usually much higher than 0.010, so I run a ballmill at 0.010. I like to keep DOC as small as possible to reduce vibration, so I then did a 0.005 (40%), then 0.000 (20%) pass. All going in perpendicular directions to each other. The reduced DOC helps me ensure that the vibration doesnt cause excess tool marking. Now, this was MDF with an almost brand new ballmill so I didnt expect much fuzzing. There is definitely some tool marks left, so I would probably need to do some sanding to remove them all if I wasnt going to leave this version on my desk. My next version I will do a 10% stepover and see where that gets me.
-----
The General Code forum requires G-Code. I really do NOT like sharing G-code because it just seems dangerous to me... There is a lot of work that goes into the setup of the work so that it matches your program. By just plugging in some Gcode you found online, you *might* find yourself in a serious crash.
Check out my Etsy store: http://www.etsy.com/shop/WondrousWidgets

Interested in making your own machinable wax? Check out: http://www.instructables.com/id/Machinable-Wax/
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